news on arrival — soldiers and kaffirs — the C.I.V. disembark— Sir Alfred Milner — Mr George Peel — the Princess Of Wales hospital ship — Lord Roberts — at the Mount Nelson Hotel—Mr Charles Arnold — an acknowledgment—future prospects.
I finished my previous chapter as the Briton was dropping her anchor in Table Bay, and every one's excitement was intense when the port captain's boat came alongside and a string of questions poured into the ears of the chief officer : " What's the news ? How was Lady-smith won ? Are there many casualties ? Are there any tidings from Kimberley or Mafeking ? Where is Roberts ? Has Methuen been superseded ?" and when the clamour had somewhat subsided^ the news that Ladysmith had not been relieved was succeeded by a breathless silence and a subdued prayer that the Manchester City, which had caused our cheers, our happiness, and our champagne, might go to the bottom of the deep blue sea. Nor was the general feeling alleviated when we learnt from the ' Cape Times' that Buller had been fighting five days and had met with a reverse! Major Lascelles, the disembarkation officer, came out in a tug to bring off General Wavell, and b}^ his courtesy I was permitted to accompany him, as the Briton could not find a berth for at least an hour. My first view of Table Mountain and Sea Point and Green Point (the suburbs of Cape Town) was as good a one as I shall probably ever have ; and truly the grandeur of these magnified Salisbury Crags, with the Devil's Peak towering up to the east'ard and the Twelve Apostles forming the western flank of the "Table," were a sight on which I could feast my ignorant eyes and wonder if ever again I should be so thrilled on my arrival in any other foreign land. The bay, usually empty, was crowded with all the finest ships of every line, and when I got inside I saw the reason why the Briton had to wait her turn, so full were these enormous docks of stems and sterns, of funnels and of masts. Surely South Africa must feel the weight of Greater Britain's majesty!
But a moment, and I was in a hansom (such an uncomfortable one !), and being twisted and jolted round innumerable quay corners, past horse-boxes, hay-trucks, army service traction-engines, big guns, and ammunition waggons, over the ruttiest and worst of roads, till I turned into St George's Street and found civilisation. Shops I saw—not ordinary "shanties," but buildings to rival some of the best in London,—electric trams (far ahead of London), ranks of cabs, policemen, Malays, Englishmen, foreigners, Dutchmen; and then I was at the office where I hoped to find my chief and my telegrams. But I found neither, though I found a friend in need (it was Mr Charles Hands), who fold me Mr Pryor had gone to look for me ; and he took me round the corner to Poole's Hotel in Queen Victoria Street, where I learnt that a " tickie" meant threepence, that whisky was Scotch, and that my new friend was off to fill poor Steevens' place, by whose death the 'Daily Mail' loses one of the cleverest and most popular of her war correspondents. Here, there, and everywhere I saw "soldiers of the Queen," nearly all in khaki, but all in practically unrecognisable uniform unless I looked at their shoulder-straps. I noticed a red band on a cap and collar which I knew denoted a staff officer, and of these there appeared more than of those who composed the ever-to-be-met fatigue parties. Black faces prevailed ; but as I made my way back to the Briton, after engaging rooms at Poole's Hotel (a quiet, inoffensive inn), I noted contentment and happiness on the faces of those who, their labours at the dock at an end, were returning in shoals to some part or other of the town. Some were Kaffirs, some Malays (of which there is a very large population); others looked like Hottentots, and some like Zulus,—but all seemed happy, and all spoke English or what sounded like it. On no face that I saw that afternoon could I bring myself to realise that its owner knew that a great war was in progress within 600 miles of their dwellings. I might have been in England again, so calm and cheerful and callous were they all. It was late in the evening, so I elected to sleep on board that night and say Good - bye to the Volunteers who have afforded me such an amount of interest during the past sixteen days.
I was up early next morning—everybody was up early. Lord Roberts and Sir Howard Vincent had paid an unofficial visit to the ship the previous evening, and the C.I.V. were to disembark,—and disembark they did, and marched to their new camp on Green Point Common. Very well they looked on the quay in their puttees and folded overcoats ; and as, headed by one of the most popular colonels, they marched off, they were greeted with rounds of applause and expressions of goodwill. A rearguard was left to take care of the baggage, but by sundown everything there was room for in a somewhat restricted camp had been transferred from the hold of the great Union Liner, and she was left to coal and revictual and make out a practically fresh list of passengers.
My first move this morning was in connection with the Absent-minded Beggar Relief Fund, and, with letters of introduction, I made my way to Government House, where I was immediately received by Sir Alfred Milner. I told him of my errand, and asked his sympathy and advice in my first movements, both of which were cordially extended. He asked me about the Volunteer and Yeomanry arrangements, and what feeling they had excited in England, and if the effort was likely to be successful numerically as well as physically. I told him all I could, but I don't like the subject of the Yeomanry organisation, and I await its result. Still, to-night's paper announces the departure of many shiploads of our British Yeomen and Volunteers, who will have much to contend with if all I hear about the efficiency of the Imperial Light Horse and other irregular forces be true. Sir Alfred told me of the two main organisations in aid of our wounded and invalided soldiers — the Red Cross and Good Hope Societies — which were acting in harmony now, and doing splendid work. He himself is taking an active interest in the Refugee Fund; and I learnt that Mr George Peel, so well known to all of us as an organiser in connection with the Khartoum College, had come down from the front, and was in charge of the combined Red Cross and Good Hope Societies. So there is not likely to be overlapping nor any oversight in general management.
I fled from Sir Alfred Milner to Mr Peel, and found him in his office in Parliament House, and at once laid my proposals before him. I pointed out the necessity for the ' Daily Mail' organisation being an individual one, as the money so subscribed was a public trust which could not be spent haphazard by any other society; and I equally endorsed his views that overlapping should be avoided, but that no stone should be left unturned to see the money carefully, yet, when necessity arose, liberally spent. Mr Peel entered heartily into the project, and explained his method of distribution. His two societies were working at the field and base hospitals, and on the transports which were carrying our wounded home. He agreed to my proposals that I should, on behalf of the Absent-minded Beggar Fund, take over the management of the latter branch by providing luxuries and necessaries for all the wounded men who were placed on board ship, and so we now have each our own branch. I hope Tommy Atkins will have cause to remember his comforts!
I thought it advisable to carry the principal medical officer with me, and I called on Surgeon - General Wilson, who received me most kindly, and entered heartily into the scheme. Then I went to see Major Morgan, who is in charge of the Princess of Wales hospital ship, which sails to-morrow with its cargo of wounded and invalided soldiers. He told me, in answer to my question, that he would be very glad of some fresh fruit, which had not been thought of, and I am off to the market very early to-morrow to buy as many grapes and peaches as he has room for, and which will keep during their long voyage of twenty-eight days.
There were 184 soldiers on board the Princess of Wales, and these were under the care of three doctors, four sisters, and forty Bed Cross orderlies.
Major Morgan afforded me the privilege of looking over the ship, and I must say she has been most beautifully and completely fitted up for the comfort of her inmates. There were only six cot cases, one of them a poor fellow who had lost his leg, but he was quite cheery, and told me how five days after the amputation he had been moved to the base. It is interesting to note that he was one of those wounded by our own shells.
The men all spoke in the highest terms of the treatment they had received from the doctors. I witnessed a pretty little incident, when one fellow who had been shot through the head, and lost the sight of an eye, jumped up as one of the doctors passed and insisted on shaking hands with him, and thanking him for all he had done.
Amongst those on board were thirty - six Guardsmen and a great many of the Highland Light Infantry and Black "Watch. Most of them came from the Modder field of battle, but some from Colenso, and among them was a man who, in trying to save his captain at the big Tugela fight, was crushed by a horse and waggon so badly that he could only speak in a whisper. How dreadfully sad it all is ! I saw another unique case, that of a man who had been shot in the shoulder, whence the bullet had passed out through his throat. He was apparently well, but when I put my hand on his neck I felt a vibration like an electric current. The bullet had evidently caused the two veins in the main artery to cross each other, and, strange to say, he only felt the discomfort in the opposite ear.
Although news reaches me as I write that the blankets and rugs sent out as a present from the Princess have not yet come to hand, her Royal Highness must be congratulated on the success of her splendid hospital ship, which would make an ideal invalid transport if only she would go faster.
For the moment I leave the Absent-minded Beggar Fund to tell you I called on Lord Roberts, and was most kindly received. He had his headquarters at 55 Grave Street, where Sir Redvers Buller was before him, and very comfortable he seemed, close to Government House and right opposite the Houses of Parliament. I presented my letters, had a chat with him, and told him my errand, in which he seemed to take the kindliest interest, and he promised to give me a letter to whichever General I wished to see. Truly I am in luck's way, as I had been fighting my fears all the morning, having heard that I should have no chance of a pass.
Triumphantly I returned to the Mount Nelson Hotel, which had found room for me, and I have got with Murray Gourlay a delightful room overlooking the town and Table Bay, which, with the hilly background in the distance, form the most glorious landscape. Here I met Harry Hungerford, Seymour Fortescue (naval A.D.C. to Lord Roberts), Rosie Wemyss (of H.M.S. Niobe), and many others; but I shan't stay long now, as the organisation is making giant strides towards completion. Meanwhile my companion is snoring, my face is turned towards the harbour lights, and the Cape Town chanticleers are crowing me to sleep to the raucous tune of the chirping crickets.
Jan. 31.—Mr Charles Arnold, who is touring here, with his theatrical company, in " What Happened to Jones," came up to see me at the City Club last night, of which I have been made a temporary member, to tell me how and where to buy my fruit for the invalided troops. You will wonder why he came ? Well, he has done wonders in this way since he arrived : first he spent his own money, and since then he has received over £70 to support his movement in supplying fresh-cut fruit for our troops at the front—a very laudable act. He came round the market with me very early this morning, and so busy have I been that though it is 2 p.m. I have not yet got a shave. The fact is, all my energies have been direeted in seeing to the Princess of Wales hospital ship, and I took the fruit I bought (some 500 lb. of grapes and five large baskets of melons) on board myself, and the ' Daily Mail' Fund has received the warmest thanks from Major Morgan and the purser. Moreover, I have succeeded not only in finding every necessary and luxury for the men on board this ship, but have been able, with the assistance of the Red Cross, to supply them to 33 others who sailed last night on the Assaye, and am arranging for 150 more who will go on Saturday or early next week.
To Mr George Peel I owe my warmest thanks for his co-operation, and within forty-eight hours of my arrival I find myself, as representing the Absent-minded Beggar Fund, not only in complete unison with all the officials and other societies, but in sole control of a very large and charitable organisation, whereby our soldiers will arrive in old England carefully clothed and fed after a tedious voyage.
I have received the kindliest letter to General Buller from Lord Roberts, with which Murray Gourlay and my servant will be able to get through with me to the Tugela or wherever General Buller has moved. Of course I am in a fever to be off, but have not yet finished my duties here, and may be detained a week. I shall do exactly similar work in Durban, from which port so many wounded are going home on transports which do not call at Cape Town at all.
Feb. 1. — Having called on Sir Forestier Walker and written my name in his book this morning, I went to report progress to Sir Alfred Milner, as he had asked me to tell him all I was doing- for the Absent-minded Beggars. He seemed much pleased at the way things were going, and granted me his patronage for the fund. I shall ask no one else, as I believe in " no committees," and the Queen's representative embraces all the loyal British subjects I might have added to the list of patrons. I dine to-night with Mr J. G. Hamilton, who is treasurer of the Yeomanry Hospital scheme, and who is kindness itself when any information or assistance is required. I hear he has asked Captain Griffin of the Briton, which sails for Durban to-morrow morning, and Algy Lennox. Mr Smart (of the Standard Bank), Murray Gourlay, Mr W. H. Bond, and Harry Hunger-ford are also of the party.
Feb. 2.—Even in the Cape the torture of being interviewed is in vogue, but I was only too glad this morning to give every possible publicity to the ' Cape Argus' and ' Cape Times' about the work the Absent-minded Beggar Relief Fund has taken up. Then I met Harry Hungerford, and appointed him my successor in the management. I was glad to do so, as I have known him a great many years, and can trust him to carry out my instructions, and his knowledge of Cape Town and its magnates during the past two years will materially assist the interests and objects of the fund. I next caught the train to Rondebosch, near which station (about six miles from Cape Town) the Portland Hospital is situated, determined to ascertain how it was getting on under the management of its two chief nurses, Lad}^ Henry Bentinck and Mrs Bagot. A drive of about a mile through shady pine groves in a country interspersed with smiling villas gave me my introduction to some of nature's finest scenery. Everywhere happiness seemed to reign, despite the war which was raging at no great distance; on all sides the birds were singing, the turtle-doves cooing, and the bright plumbago and bougainvillea twining their network of antennae in a natural growth. And then, forced upon my view, came the hospital camp of white tents, and the orderlies and nurses hurrying hither and thither in their business-like way, extending all the comforts a great and civilised nation can afford for tlie welfare of the men who are wounded in her cause. I sent my card in, and was at once ushered into the mess-tent where Lady Henry and Mrs Bagot were sitting, and soon I was deep in conversation with the former while Mrs Bagot " went the rounds." Imagine a dream of beauty in brown holland dress, a soft white fichu round her neck, a pretty straw hat with pale blue ribbon to match a belt of the same colour, and, over the whole, a dainty workmanlike pinafore and Red Cross armlet, and you will picture one of the angels of mercy who has given up the comfort of her home to take her share of the work (as Mrs Harter puts it) that " none else can accomplish but they." When I saw Mrs Bagot visiting the tents with a basket-load of cigarettes and other luxuries, I understood why the soldiers looked so contented and happy, and I almost hoped that if I was wounded I might occupy a cot in the Portland Hospital! Major Kilkelly, who is the surgeon-in-charge, kindly showed me over the whole camp, and very perfect it seemed, with its Rontgen-ray apparatus and little electric engine and dynamo, and every other medical necessary that money can provide for a perfect equipment. The hospital occupied about three acres of ground, and had about twelve tents with an average of eight beds to each (I believe the hospital can accommodate 104 patients); and in some I saw men reading, in others they were smoking, and in another one I was initiated into a game of " brag " which was being played by four almost convalescent "Tommies." The two " heads " of the hospital are called " sister " by all the men, and Mrs Harter well expresses it when she says,—
" In the stress of their need, they are sisters indeed In the hearts of the nation to-day."
I had a cup of tea and a long talk with Lady Henry about starting a convalescent home out here. It is sadly needed, for whatever the medical authorities may say, there are cases of consumption and other diseases which will probably kill the patients if they return home during the cold season. There was a consumptive case in the Portland hospital, and I am doing all I can to get the man, who is to return by the Kildonan Castle on Monday, to remain here if a home and money can be found. Mr J. D. Logan, one of the members of Parliament, has offered cottages, &c, at Matjesfontein, and I am making inquiries about this, and hope to meet and have a chat with the man who has made this generous and hitherto unaccepted offer. You who are at home must dispel from your mind any idea that the amateurs in the Portland Hospital are amateurs. They are doing a power of good work which is much appreciated by the poor sufferers.
Feb. 4, 10 p.m.—I am in the train between Cape Town and Matjesfontein. You will realise the difficulty of keeping pace with the enormous amount of work I have had to cram into a very short space of time; and even now as I write in a shaky sleeping compartment I feel as if there will be no night for me, so much have I to tell you. To continue on a subject I had wound up with last time I wrote, I am in the train on my way to see Mr Logan at Matjesfontein, a place nearly 3000 feet above sea-level, in a beautifully healthy if sterile region, and about 100 miles from Cape Town. No sooner had I been infected with the idea that a home for convalescents would prove a godsend, and hardly had 1 learnt of the refusal by the military authorities of Mr Logan's generous offer to place houses at the disposal of the Government, than I made up my mind, after consulting one or two people " in the know," and to whom the word red - tape could not be attached, to see if Mr Logan would renew his offer to the ' Daily Mail' for their Absent-minded Beggars. A telegram was soon replied to, and I am off to see what can be done in this direction. I return to-morrow night, and will then tell you the result. Meanwhile I must hark back to my doings during the past two days. I ran out to Rondebosch for the second time with Sir John Milbank, who is making a good recovery from Iris serious wound, to pay another visit to the Portland Hospital, where he had been so well nursed. The idea of the convalescent home much impressed those in authority there, —in fact, I am not at all sure that, if I got to the bottom of it, I should not find the scheme originated from the brains of one of the " fair sisters" there; and I was glad to hear the case of consumption is not to be so peremptorily dealt with, as the departure to-morrow of the Kildonan Castle had led me to fear. Lord Henry Bentinck and Captain Bagot were both on the spot, representing the work and money of this snug little hospital. The 'sisters' did not at all approve of a photograph I wanted to take, as a south-easter had had (so they imagined without the aid of a looking-glass) a detrimental effect on their coiffure; so I was bidden to return another day for this purpose, and we returned to Cape Town about 6 p.m. There I learnt how exceedingly onerous the duties of a press censor are ! I will quote you an extraordinary case. The manager of the 'Daily Mail' at Cape Town had sent a telegram on my behalf, which ran as follows : "Sir Alfred Milner granted patronage. Red Cross Society takes charge of hospitals at the front. Good Hope Society works at the base. Absent-minded Beggar Relief Fund has sole charge of wounded going home on ships."
The telegram was delayed for forty-eight hours before we were informed that it could not be sent. Note that it had nothing to do with the war. On inquiry, we were informed by Lord Stanley that he could not sanction a message about the Red Cross Society without being satisfied as to its truth. We asked him why he had passed the first sentence, and he said that he had sent up to Government House to inquire if it were true ! I had to produce a letter from the Hon. George Peel, who was then manager of the Red Cross Society, to satisfy him that I was not a liar. Imagine the following instance : A man telegraphs to a friend, " I am engaged to marry Miss So-and-so," and the censor cannot vouch for the accuracy of the statement without seeing Miss So-and-so to get her confirmation, and you ha\e the facts in a nutshell. I think you will also see the ridiculous side of what was, to say the least of it, a most annoying and unnecessary instance of red-tape, stupidity, or gross interference. I dined with Abe Bailey, Milbank, and Algy Lennox. The first has done a great deal of hard and good work in procuring horses and giving the Government information and advice which his knowledge of the country for so many years past was able to afford. The previous night I had dined at Government House, and had a long talk with Mrs Hanbury Williams, who has been the leader of so many charitable organisations since the war broke out. It is an interesting fact that we know nothing in Cape Town till long after you do in London, and only to-night (Sunday, February 4) have we learnt of the great loss we have sustained at Spion Kop. I am not going to deal with matters of controversy just now, but I am much mistaken if Sir Alfred Milner knows half of what is going on, or if he gets his information till long after others know it. This mysterious silence is being carried too far, and gives one the impression that the military authorities are afraid to have their losses or their mistakes till something turns up to cause the general public to forget them. This en passant. Government House is a quaint comfortable building, just above the Houses of Parliament, and it would be difficult to find a kinder or better host than the present governor, who is going-through a very trying period of difficulty and unrest (I should perhaps use the word treason) with a sang - froid and calm firmness which reflect credit not only on his appointment but on the qualities of character so necessary to define a great dictator populorum. To-day I have been to Simon's Town to pay a visit to the Niobe, of which my cousin, Rosie Wemyss, is commander, and also to see the Boer prisoners who were landed from the transport Catalonia yesterday. I received a special " order to visit" overnight from the staff officer in command of her Majesty's prisoners of war, and got to Simon's Town and on board the Niobe in time to hear the commander give the somewhat quaint order : " Unrig church; continue smoking." " Unrigging" church apparently consisted in lowering a flag which was flown to indicate that service was in progress, and the carrying away at its termination of chairs and benches; and the latter meant that during service no man on deck was' allowed to smoke.
Feb. 5. — I was unable to continue my letter last night, owing to the shakiness of the train, but here goes! I had a good look over the Niobe before lunch, and what a beautiful ship she is. Even the Powerful, which was lying alongside of her, is not so perfect; but I was sorry not to see Hedworth Lambton, who is locked up in Ladysmith with the Naval Brigade. The crew of the Niobe are fretting dreadfully at their enforced detention in Simon's Bay, when, as one of them put it, " If they want to put an end to the war why don't they send for our guns ?" a truism that requires no comment. But I am inclined to think that the little incident at Suda was the reason the Admiralty kept their fleet as intact as possible, in case of emergencies on the other side of the Straits of Gibraltar. They seemed a very cheery lot in the ward - room mess at luncheon, and spent a good deal of time in fishing—and what fishing it must be ! Only two days ago one of the middies caught a Cape salmon weighing 112 lb., and his own weight was only 120 lb., but 1 believe it required the assistance of four brother officers to land the monster, which stood 5 ft. 8 in. After lunch we went on shore, and I paid Mrs O'Brien (Mr Harmsworth's sister-in-law) a visit at the British Hotel. Her husband is besieged in Kimberley, and they were only married a few days before this occurred. She is very interested in our poor Absent-minded Beggars, and assists at concerts and other amusements for the patients in the hospitals. We then went on to the naval cricket - ground close to the fort, where the Boer prisoners are encamped, over which a guard of the Warwickshire Militia, under Captain Beattie, was stationed to look after them. They were a curious sight, men with beards and without them, and some with only part of one, in red flannel shirts and dirty white ones, in slouch hats or caps, some in khaki trousers, others of different patterns, and one and all shouting and laughing as they indulged in a cricket match with a mallet and a rope ball! Every now and again there would be a rush to the canteen, and then the game would be resumed. They were surrounded like wild animals by a 12-foot barbed-wire fence, with sentries all round them, and really it was necessary, as while on board the Catalonia three did try to escape. But isn't it ridiculous that in harbour every temptation to do so should have been afforded them by the supplying of life - belts to each cabin ? One of the three men was picked up twenty-four hours later on shore, another was caught by the patrol - boat hanging on to a buoy, and the third is believed to have fallen a victim to sharks, which abound in these waters. Mr Julius Jeppy and Mr Russik were friends of ours, and we got permission to see them, and a very pleasant half hour we had outside their prison. I say outside, because I am not sure if it would have been diplomatic to go in; and as I hear already of insults to the Warwickshire men who have to act as scavengers inside the Boer encampment, I hope the authorities will see to this, and deal peremptorily with any such case, as it is a disgrace to allow our men to do the prisoners' duty under insult without making the latter pay dearly for their conduct. The prisoners were for the most part Transvaalers. Some were taken at Elandslaagte, and these consisted chiefly of Free Staters, but there were a number of Germans (among them Colonel Schiel), and those who might be called good fellows were much mixed up with the most awful riff-raff imaginable. It is amusing to note that there was only one officer amongst them when taken (Colonel Schiel), but since their capture a great many had received their commissions ! Julius Jeppy is a man of some personality, and he was offered his parole, but declined it unless his friend Russik got it as well. I hope the military authorities granted them both a " free pass," as neither wished to fight, but they were commandeered. They told us they were very kindly cared for, and I gathered that the war might be over in six months if it was concluded before we reached Pretoria. If, however, we had to reduce Pretoria, they believed the siege of that town, which was magnificently fortified, would occupy in itself six months. There were 1500 Germans fighting for the Boers.
The last time I met Riissik was at Monte Carlo in 189G, in the Casino. Talking of coincidences reminds me of my meeting an old Scotchman in the train the other day on my way to Rondebosch. He saw my kodak, and asked me if I had been taking some snapshots. I told him the kodak had found plenty of employment since I landed from the Briton, to which he asked, " And was the Earl of Rosslyn on board?" "Yes," I said, "he is opposite to you now," and the old fellow was delighted. It turned out that he was an old Fife Freemason from Kirkcaldy, who had been present when I laid the foundation - stone of the Fever Hospital there on the Queen's Jubilee Day in 1897. He was anxious to see me, and we shook hands heartily while he told me he was then a town councillor, but that the coal strike had ruined him, as it did many others, and he had migrated here,—with poor results, I regret to say, owing to the war. His name was Skinner. I hope this anecdote will reach the ears of his many friends in Fife. I am trying to find him employment on the Absent-minded Beggar Relief Fund.
It was a fearfully hot day, and we returned in a crowded train in time to dine, and then I started off for Matjesfontein to see Mr Logan about the convalescent home.
Feb. 7. — I got back yesterday morning, after two nights in the train, delighted with my visit to Matjesfontein. The village itself consists of one row of neatly built houses of all sizes and shapes. A big open square separates them from the railway station, which at one time was a terminus on the western branch. There I met my host, Mr Logan, who provided me with a delicious bath and excellent breakfast. He may well be proud of the smartness and growth of this snug and healthy little place. It will interest you to know that the member for Worcester (South Africa) began life as a railway porter some forty years ago, and soon found himself stationmaster of Matjesfontein. With the keen foresight of a Scotsman (Mr Logan comes from Berwickshire), and blessed not only by a good education but with the well - known business bump, he foresaw the growth that was to take place in South Africa under the dictatorship of Mr Rhodes. And now we find him, if not a millionaire, at least a very rich man, known and respected by everybody, and member of Parliament for a constituency which probably contains as many acres as the whole of Scotland put together. Married to a charming Dutch lady, he has two children, a boy and girl: the former has been educated at Blair Lodge, and is an exceptionally good cricketer. This is not surprising, as Mr Logan has himself always captained and managed the South African teams which only a year or two ago were opposed by Lord Hawke's England Eleven. There is a capital cricket-ground at Matjesfontein, a bank, a large flour-mill, a resident doctor (also from Berwickshire), and a hotel, which, having outgrown its demand, has been succeeded by a new and magnificent house, and carries for its sign the High Commissioner's name of Milner. During the war there has been no one more generous than Mr Logan, no one who has
a generous offer. worked harder and been more successful in procuring comforts for our troops as they passed through Matjesfontein on their way to the front. On Monday when I was there the ringing cheers of the North Staffords and South Wales Borderers testified that the inner man had been well catered for during their half-hour's stay, and I doubt if there are any officers, from Lord Roberts to the last joined subaltern in Kitchener's Horse, who have not felt the grip of Mr Logan's hand or partaken of his hospitality. Only last November Mr Logan offered the military authorities the old hotel, the new one he has just finished, and three other annexes, as a hospital; and he also offered £200 a - month for six months to assist in its maintenance. General Buller, to whom the offer was made, referred the matter to the medical authorities, while thanking Mr Logan for his generosity. Since then (Nov. 19) Mr Logan has never heard a word from the authorities. It is passing strange that a place such as Matjesfontein, noted throughout Cape Colony as a health resort, situated 3000 feet above the sea-level, with an excellent water-supply and the best of sanitary arrangements, should have been passed over, and the kind offer neglected by the powers that be, over whom the Principal Medical Officer presides. Surgeon - General Wilson told me the reason of its non-acceptance was that it was too far from the seat of operations, and too near the base ! I have now told you my reasons for trying to step in where others feared to tread. Mr Logan has renewed his offer to me, or any part of it, to assist me with my scheme for a convalescent home for our wounded soldiers. I have therefore cabled to London to the fund I represent, asking if they will assist me, and I anxiously await their reply, as on it depends whether I leave for Durban on the 10th or stay to set in motion this new scheme. If I am allowed, I shall begin operations on a small scale, and see how it grows, as my one fear is that Tommy Atkins will prefer to go home and die rather than stay here and live. The best advertisement of the health-giving qualities of Matjesfontein is George Lohmann, the well-known Surrey cricketer, whom I saw on Monday, and who swears by it.
To turn to other subjects. After breakfast I met another Scotchman, Mr Robert Brown, the chief engineer of the Cape Railways, who was returning from his tour of inspection. He and Mr Logan had seen the battle of the Modder river, and had gone over the Boer trenches after their evacuation. He showed me many curiosities he had picked up, among them a piece of a Vickers-Maxim shield, broken sharp off by a shrapnel shell, some Mauser and Martini cases, while from our field of operations he gathered a 4'7-inch cartridge-case. Mr Logan showed me poor General Wauchope's sword. It was in his house, and he was waiting instructions what to do with it, but I suggested that it should be sent home. The marks of his life's blood were plainly visible on the hilt. He knew Mr Logan well, and the latter had his remains conveyed (not from the battlefield, for they were not buried there) to Matjesfontein, and thence they were solemnly and reverently interred at Pieter Meintjes, about six miles down the railway, on Mr Logan's property. About 200 military attended the obsequies, and his charger was also brought down. He lies in a beautiful spot, and I went off to see his grave, which still carried the tokens of esteem and love in which he was held, and which were deposited on the day he was buried in December. Close by him is the grave of Mr Maitlaud Grant and his three children (the former killed in a railway accident six years ago at Trows river), and to whose memory a marble obelisk is plainly visible from the railway. General Wauchope lies in a plot of ground surrounded by a neat white fence. On one side his grave is shielded from the north-east winds by a rugged kopje, while a dozen beautiful cypress trees extend their evergreen branches to shelter gratefully from the rays of Afric's noonday sun the mortal remains of one of Scotland's greatest heroes. Requicscat in pace!
Mr Logan thought an afternoon's shooting would amuse me, so he brought guns, and for three hours we tramped over the veldt. Everywhere the Namaqua dove was flitting gracefully; anon a lizard stopped to raise its head in remonstrance at my intrusion, and mice with lug white eyes dodged from hole to hole. From a thick high patch a rustling noise was heard, but long before I could get a shot the springbok was 200 yards away in mad flight; and then crouching under the soaring " lammerfunger" (a huge species of eagle), a covey of whistling partridges rose. One fell, and we pursued the rest, and bagged another brace. A lanky hare sat up in its form to. look first at its disturbers, and then it too fell a victim. " Ool ! ool ! " was shouted by the Kaffir boys as an old barndoor owl flapped lazily away, much to the disgust of the beaters. A wild cat we missed, and a troop of baboons went chattering over a kopje. Then we got on to a railway trolley, and, aided by a downward grade, soon reached Matjesfontein, in time for a late lunch. The sun was setting when we dined; and at eight o'clock I was in the train, after one of the most delightful days.
I found the mail had arrived from England on my return to Cape Town, that the Kildonan Castle's invalided soldiers had been well cared for by Harry Hungerford during my absence, and then I turned for the Mount Nelson Hotel, where Mrs O'Brien had come to lunch with me from Simon's Town. Mrs Solomon, wife of the Attorney-General, was also there, full of all that was being done in charity's name, and I have been asked to recite the " Absent - minded Beggar" in the theatre on Friday and pass the hat round. I shall do this if I have not gone to Durban. Sir Alfred Milner has given his patronage, but will not be present. I think he does not wish to give his loyal supporters the opportunity they are dying for of causing a popular demonstration just when the Bond is making these villainous and infamous attacks upon him. In my next chapter I will tell you more of the manners and customs of Cape Town than of myself.